Monday 1 September 2014

International Jewellery London 2014 Review

Exhausting but such fun!

I'm aware that many of you may not know what IJL is! Well, it's the U.K's premier jewellery trade show held annually in London featuring upcoming designers, collection releases from big brands, supplies of loose precious gems plus catwalk shows and free seminars. In a nut shell, an opportunity not to be missed for me!
Best of all this event is free if you register online in advance so an early train to Paddington on Sunday saw me making the most of this fab event.

When I arrived I started upstairs where the Design Galleries were and most notably the New Designers and Kickstart exhibits. I was really looking forward to this part for several reasons. Firstly, to see what trends designers had picked up on, secondly, any new innovative techniques that I might want to try my hand at and lastly for a good ol' chat! I expected to be able to have a natter with a few designers, hear how they got started, where their inspiration comes from and what they want to get working on next.

But it couldn't have been more different! With the exception of one or two people, everyone was (I almost don't want to say) hostile.......?! As soon as it was revealed my badge said 'Designer' and I wasn't looking to buy for my shop/gallery, conversation ceased. Whether that's because outside of their sales pitch they didn't know what to say or that they felt it was a waste of their time talking to someone that wasn't going to place an order I have no idea. Perhaps they thought I was there to steal ideas! However, as I mentioned previously, I was there to see what trends designers had picked up on so that I wouldn't do the same!
I've jumped on the 'trend' bandwagon before and it has not paid dividends.

I saw a lot of similar things too - nature themed jewellery, lots of bees, butterflies flowers etc. A lot of bright, semi-precious gemstone set jewellery and plenty of rose gold plating because that's a 'trendy' thing :)

Another peculiar thing I noted too was that along with myself, I overheard a lot of people commenting on how cheap the wholesale prices of designer jewellery was. 'Too cheap?!' I hear you say! Yup, and this was for two reasons I think. New designers were massively underselling themselves and probably because of reason two - most designers now it seems are getting their work made abroad, cast and finished in India and the far East. How does a designer who also makes their own work by hand compete with that?
Now there were plenty of shop owners I heard asking designers where there products were made so it was encouraging to know that there are still discerning shoppers out there!

In conclusion it made me come to realise where I want to be taking my business and trade shows is not one route. I don't want to sell out! I want to continue to improve my silversmithing skills so that I rely less and less on mass producing techniques and instead create more with my own two hands. This will mean that you won't be seeing my websites selling sterling silver opal earrings for under a tenner but instead will find something fabricated by me or if not by me, then I will tell you who! For example, I have recently collaborated with a self employed U.K charm maker who has cast new acorn charms for Graceful Deviant, my very own exclusive design rather than using a generic, mass produced charm. I know we can't worry 24/7 about where our purchases come from and how they are made but from my own standpoint, I want to be transparent so that when people want to be a little more discerning, they can be :)

Now, on a less-ranty note - shopping time! I had a blast drooling over all the scrumptious gemstones on offer and I'm rather pleased I don't set 'proper' gemstones and diamonds or I would not be eating for the rest of the year! But I got a good haul including these stones for setting into rings and studs:

Amazonite eyes, labradorite nose and carnelian smile!
 Plus these strands were too tempting not to buy!

Peacock pearls, turquoise, amazonite, onyx, rock crystal and pyrite
And my winter colours:

Stunning faceted rock cystal, hematite and onyx
 Those teeny, tiny faceted gems hold sooo much potential!

Would I go again? I'm not sure. I would have loved to be able to spend more time browsing other peoples work upstairs without feeling intimidated and perhaps one day when I require some diamonds or other precious stones I will but I've made some good contacts and may not need to return for a good few years.

What are your thoughts on how jewellery is made? Would you mind if you bought a British brand only to discover it was all made somewhere else? Do you support handmade and what does that mean to you? I'd love to hear your thoughts!